DIY Pool Chemical Guide: Save Money on Pool Maintenance

Basic pool chemistry hasn’t changed. Chlorine still sanitizes, pH still needs to be balanced, and alkalinity still keeps pH swings in check. What has changed is how much some companies want to charge you for it. The truth? Many of the “specialty” pool chemicals lining store shelves are just rebranded versions of common, cheaper substances. This guide breaks it all down—what the chemicals do, how to use them safely, and how to get the same results without draining your wallet.

Let’s be honest. The moment you bought a pool, you unintentionally became a part-time chemist—minus the lab coat, and minus any training. Instead, you probably got a weekly visit from a guy in a polo shirt, a handful of mysterious chemicals, and a bill that makes you wonder if you’re treating a pool or raising sea monkeys on life support.

This guide is for pool owners who want to stay safe, save money, and stop wondering if they’re being taken for a ride every time the pool tech pulls out a bottle labeled “Algae Eliminator Supreme.”

We’re not here to bash pool service companies. Most of them are legit and doing honest work. But just like going to a car mechanic, there’s always that lingering doubt:

Did I really need that $47 bottle of clarifier?

Let’s break down what you actually need to keep your pool clean, safe, and chemical-balanced—without turning it into a science experiment gone wrong.

What They Don’t Tell You

Pool chemistry is basic science. Whether you’re running a backyard splash zone or an Olympic pool, the rules are the same:

• Add the right stuff, in the right order, in the right amounts.
• Test regularly.
• Don’t mix chemicals like a Marvel villain.

Professional pool services aren’t the enemy. But like any service industry, they’re incentivized to make things sound harder than they are—and to keep you coming back.

Testing Kits: Your First Line of Defense

Before you start tossing anything into your pool, you need a reliable way to know what’s going on in that water. That means investing in a proper testing kit—not just relying on a guess or yesterday’s numbers.

There are two main styles of kits: test strips and liquid drop kits. Strips are fast and easy—just dip and match colors—but they’re not always the most accurate. Liquid kits take a little more time but give you much more precision, especially when you’re dealing with tricky issues like pH drift or unstable chlorine levels.

If you're serious about pool maintenance, a complete liquid test kit is worth it. The best ones measure all the key elements: chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer (cyanuric acid). Once you know your numbers, you can adjust safely—no more mystery dosing.

Make it a habit: test your pool at least 2–3 times per week, and always before adding chemicals. Keep your kit out of the sun, store it in a cool, dry place, and replace it once the reagents expire. Bad data leads to bad decisions—and that’s what we’re trying to avoid.

The Chemical Numbers That Matter

Here’s your cheat sheet. Memorize these like you’re cramming for your pool’s final exam. Take a screenshot—or bust out that Polaroid and snap an old-fashioned photo.

These aren’t suggestions—they’re requirements for safe, swimmable water. Don’t wing it.

Meet Your DIY Chemical Toolkit

Here’s the starter kit for safe, budget-friendly pool care. Each item is often simpler, cheaper, or better:

Alternatives

Many commonly used pool chemicals have household equivalents that are chemically identical or functionally effective substitutes. This section outlines these alternatives, focusing on what the original chemical is, how the substitute works, and how to apply it properly without compromising pool balance, equipment integrity, or user safety.

1. Total Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate)

Common pool product: Branded “Alkalinity Increaser”

DIY alternative: Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

What it does:

Raises the total alkalinity of the water, helping to stabilize pH and prevent rapid fluctuations. Maintaining alkalinity in the range of 80–120 ppm is critical for consistent water chemistry and effective chlorine performance.

How the alternative works:

Baking soda is chemically identical to commercial alkalinity increaser. It's typically sold in grocery stores and labeled as sodium bicarbonate. It performs the same buffering function in pool water.

How to use safely:

• Add no more than 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons at a time.
• Dissolve in a clean bucket of water before adding.
• Pour slowly around the pool perimeter with the pump running.
• Wait 6 to 8 hours before retesting.

Warnings:

Adding too much can cause temporary cloudiness and may slightly increase pH. Avoid overcorrecting. Use food-grade or pool-grade baking soda only—avoid scented or treated varieties.

2. Liquid Chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite)

Common pool product: Branded liquid chlorine (10–12.5% sodium hypochlorite)

DIY alternative: Unscented household bleach (5–6% sodium hypochlorite)

What it does:

Sanitizes pool water by neutralizing bacteria, algae, and organic contaminants. Ideal free chlorine level should be maintained at 1–3 ppm.

How the alternative works:

Household bleach contains the same active ingredient but at a lower concentration. It is effective if dosed correctly, though more volume may be needed to match pool-grade chlorine levels.

How to use safely:

• Use only plain, unscented bleach with a sodium hypochlorite content of 5–6%.
• Do not use “splashless,” “color-safe,” or scented variants.
• Add bleach during evening hours to reduce degradation from sunlight.
• Pour directly into the return stream with the pump running for even distribution.
• Adjust dosage based on volume and current chlorine levels.

Warnings:

Bleach degrades over time, especially if stored in heat or sunlight. Always check the manufacturing date. Never mix bleach with other pool chemicals, especially acids, due to risk of toxic gas production.

3. pH Decreaser (Muriatic Acid or Sodium Bisulfate)

Common pool product: Branded “pH Minus” or “pH Decreaser”

DIY alternative: Muriatic acid (hardware store grade hydrochloric acid, 31–33%)

What it does:

Lowers pH and total alkalinity in pool water. Ideal pH level is 7.4–7.6. Total alkalinity should remain between 80–120 ppm.

How the alternative works:

Muriatic acid is a strong acid used in both commercial and industrial applications. The version sold in hardware stores is chemically the same as pool-branded acid, often at a higher concentration and significantly lower cost.

How to use safely:

• Always wear acid-resistant gloves and eye protection.
• Ensure good ventilation when handling.
• Dilute the acid by adding it to water, never the reverse.
• Use a 10:1 water-to-acid ratio for safer application.
• Pour slowly around the pool with the pump running.
• Wait 2 hours before retesting pH.

Warnings:

Do not store acid near chlorine or other oxidizers. Never mix with bleach. Always label containers and store out of reach of children and pets. Do not use near vinyl liners or soft surfaces without guidance.

4. pH Increaser (Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Tetraborate)

Common pool product: Branded “pH Increaser” or “pH Buffer”

DIY alternative: Borax (sodium tetraborate), such as 20 Mule Team Borax

What it does:

Raises the pH level in pool water without significantly raising total alkalinity. Ideal pH level should be 7.4–7.6.

How the alternative works:

Borax is a mildly alkaline compound that increases pH while providing some stabilization. It is often used as a laundry booster but contains the same compound used in pool chemistry.

How to use safely:

• Pre-dissolve in a bucket of warm water.
• Add small amounts at a time (start with 1/2 lb per 10,000 gallons).
• Circulate water for several hours and retest before adding more.

Warnings:

While relatively low-risk, borax can accumulate and elevate borate levels in the pool. Do not exceed recommended dosages, and monitor over time. Keep out of reach of children and do not store with food products.

5. Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Chloride)

Common pool product: Branded calcium hardness increaser

DIY alternative: Hardware store calcium chloride (often sold as ice melt or concrete accelerator, check purity)

What it does:

Raises calcium hardness in pool water. Ideal range is 200–400 ppm, particularly for plaster or concrete pools. Proper calcium levels prevent water from becoming corrosive.

How the alternative works:

Calcium chloride is used in several industries, and hardware-store versions can be used if they are free from additives and colorants. Always check the label for purity.

How to use safely:

• Always add calcium chloride to water, never the reverse, due to heat generation.
• Stir in bucket until dissolved, then pour slowly into pool with circulation on.
• Use 1.25 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise hardness approximately 10 ppm.
• Retest after 24 hours.

Warnings:

Calcium chloride generates heat when dissolving and may burn skin. Handle with gloves. Avoid undissolved granules sitting on pool surfaces—they can cause staining. High calcium levels can lead to scaling and cloudy water.

6. Salt (For Saltwater Chlorinators)

Common pool product: Pool-grade salt (sodium chloride)

DIY alternative: High-purity solar or evaporated salt without additives

What it does:

Saltwater pools use electrolysis to convert sodium chloride into chlorine. Salt itself is not a sanitizer, but it enables the system to continuously generate chlorine. Ideal salt levels are 2,500–3,500 ppm, depending on manufacturer specs.

How the alternative works:

Many solar or evaporated salts sold for water softeners are chemically suitable for pools if they are pure sodium chloride without iron, anti-caking agents, or iodine.

How to use safely:

• Check that the product is at least 99% pure sodium chloride.
• Add gradually and brush the bottom to dissolve evenly.
• Test salinity regularly and only adjust in small increments.
• Refer to your salt chlorinator manual for dosage and maintenance guidance.

Warnings:

Using impure salt can stain surfaces and damage the generator. Over-salting may cause corrosion of ladders, fixtures, and metal parts. Always test with a digital salt tester and avoid overcorrection.

⚠️ Safety First: What You Absolutely Must Know

This is where we stop joking around entirely. Pool chemicals can seriously injure or kill you if mishandled. Professional pool services have insurance and training for a reason.

The Deadly Mixing Rules

NEVER mix different chemicals together. Ever. This isn't paranoia—it's chemistry. Common deadly combinations include chlorine plus acid creating chlorine gas (used as a weapon in WWI), chlorine plus ammonia creating chloramines (toxic gas that can kill), and calcium hypochlorite plus acid causing explosive reactions.

Safe practice:

Add chemicals separately, with pump running, waiting at least 30 minutes between different chemical additions.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Minimum safety gear for chemical handling: 

Chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile or neoprene), safety glasses or goggles, long pants and closed-toe shoes, and face mask when handling powders. When handling muriatic acid, add: Acid-resistant apron, face shield, and ensure upwind positioning.

Storage Requirements

Separate storage areas for: 

Acids (cool, dry, away from metals), chlorine products (cool, dry, away from organics), and alkaline products (dry storage).

Never store in:

Direct sunlight, hot areas (garage in summer), near pool equipment, or where children or pets can access.

Bottom Line: Take Back Control

Pool care doesn't have to feel mysterious, expensive, or out of your hands. Yet too often, it does—because the pool industry has a way of dressing up the basics with big terms and bigger price tags.

In the same way, you don’t need to pay top dollar for something as simple as baking soda with a pool brand on the label. That’s not to say pool professionals don’t offer value—they absolutely do, especially for those who don’t have the time or interest to manage their own pool.

But for many owners, what’s really missing isn’t a service contract—it’s confidence and clear information.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

General Pool Chemistry

• Q: Do I really need to test my pool water regularly?
  A: Yes. Testing 2–3 times per week (and before adding chemicals) is critical to maintaining balanced levels of chlorine, pH, and other key metrics. Without testing, you risk over- or under-dosing chemicals, which can lead to unsafe water, equipment damage, or algae growth.You can also use the Aiper HydroComm Pure, where you can view some information about your pool in the app.
  
• Q: What’s the biggest mistake new pool owners make with chemicals?
  A: Mixing different chemicals. Never combine chlorine with acids, ammonia, or other substances—this can create toxic gases (like chlorine gas) or even explosive reactions. Always add chemicals separately, wait 30+ minutes between additions, and follow dosage instructions.

Testing Kits

• Q: Are test strips good enough, or do I need a liquid test kit?
  A: Test strips are fast and convenient for quick checks, but they’re less accurate—especially for tracking small changes in pH or chlorine. For reliable, precise results (and to avoid costly mistakes), a liquid drop kit is worth the investment. Look for one that measures chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid.
• Q: How long do test kit reagents last?
  A: Most reagents expire 6–12 months after opening. Store your kit in a cool, dry place away from sunlight to extend its life. Expired reagents can give false readings, so replace them promptly.

DIY Chemical Alternatives

• Q: Is baking soda really a substitute for “Alkalinity Increaser”?
  A: Yes! Baking soda is pure sodium bicarbonate, the same active ingredient in branded alkalinity increasers—at a fraction of the cost (1/3 to 1/5 the price). Use 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise alkalinity by ~10 ppm.
• Q: Can I use household bleach instead of pool chlorine?
  A: Absolutely. Unscented bleach (5–6% sodium hypochlorite) is chemically identical to liquid pool chlorine (which is 10–12.5% concentration). You’ll just need more bleach: 1 gallon of 6% bleach equals about 3 quarts of 12% pool chlorine. Avoid “splashless” or scented varieties—they contain additives that can harm your pool.
• Q: Is borax safe to use for raising pH?
  A: Yes, when used correctly. Borax (sodium tetraborate) gently raises pH without spiking alkalinity and even acts as a mild algaestat. Use 1 lb per 10,000 gallons to raise pH by ~0.2–0.3. Dissolve it first, and avoid overuse—excess borax can accumulate over time.

Safety

• Q: What’s the minimum safety gear I need to handle pool chemicals?
  A: At minimum: chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile or neoprene), safety glasses, long pants, and closed-toe shoes. For muriatic acid, add an acid-resistant apron, face shield, and work upwind to avoid fumes.
• Q: How should I store pool chemicals?
  A: Store chemicals in separate, cool, dry areas:
  • Acids (e.g., muriatic acid) away from metals and chlorine.
  • Chlorine products away from organics (like algae treatments).
  • Alkaline products (e.g., baking soda, borax) in dry storage.
    Never store them in direct sunlight, hot garages, or near children/pets.

Professional Services

• Q: Should I stop using a pool service entirely?
  A: Not necessarily. Many pool services are reliable and save time. The goal is to stay informed: ask what chemicals they’re adding, why, and check your test results to verify. You can often handle basic maintenance (like adding bleach or baking soda) yourself and use professionals for complex issues (e.g., equipment repairs).
• Q: How do I know if a pool service is recommending unnecessary chemicals?
  A: Cross-check their recommendations with your test results. If they push a “specialty” product (e.g., “Algae Eliminator Supreme”) when your chlorine and pH are balanced, ask for specifics on why it’s needed. Many branded products are rebranded versions of cheaper alternatives.

Saltwater Pools

• Q: Can I use water softener salt in my saltwater pool?
  A: Yes, if it’s 99% pure sodium chloride with no additives (like iodine, anti-caking agents, or iron). Check the label—“solar salt” or “evaporated salt” often works. Impure salt can stain surfaces or damage your chlorinator.